Belgrade – cheap, loud, warm-hearted: our weekend on the Danube

Our Belgrade travel diary starts with a drive: six hours from Vienna, through Hungary and then across the border at Horgoš.

Belgrade travel diary: the essentials first

Belgrade is easy to reach by car from Vienna, which made it the ideal destination for a long weekend in February. The city is also much cheaper than Vienna, for example for food and parking. Still, you should know that Belgrade is loud and sometimes chaotic – but that is exactly what gives it its charm.

February 2026, a long weekend. Belgrade is a six-hour drive from Vienna – through Hungary, border crossing at Horgoš, and that was straightforward even in winter. The city is loud, a bit raw and incredibly warm-hearted.

What we did

• Kalemegdan Fortress above the confluence of the Sava and the Danube – free, the best view in the city, especially at sunset
• Skadarlija, the old bohemian quarter, with live music in the kafanas – touristy, but good
• Zemun on the Danube: fish restaurants, the Gardoš Tower, a walk along the quay
• Splavovi: the clubs on rafts on the Sava – quieter in winter, legendary in summer
• Ada Ciganlija, the city beach – in February only for a walk

Costs

Apartment in the centre €40–60 a night, dinner for two with wine €25–35, coffee €1.50, taxi/Yandex Go within the city €3–5. You pay in dinars, cards are accepted almost everywhere – Wise converts at the rate without a mark-up. Parking in the centre works via SMS zones; the hotel or apartment will help.

Tip

Ćevapi at Walter in Zemun, burek for breakfast, rakija only in the evening. And: Serbia is not in the EU – roaming costs money, so get an eSIM or a local SIM.

Belgrade travel diary in practice: entry, tolls, money

Serbia is not in the EU, but EU citizens can enter with a national ID card or a passport. At the Horgoš border crossing there can be waiting times at weekends and at the start of holidays – on weekdays or early in the morning it is usually quick. For the drive from Vienna you need the Austrian vignette and a digital Hungarian vignette (e-matrica); in Serbia you pay motorway tolls at the booths in cash or by card. Bring your green insurance card and check that the country code SRB is not crossed out.

The currency is the Serbian dinar (RSD). Euros are sometimes accepted, but at a poor rate – so pay by card in dinars or withdraw from the ATM of a large bank. As Serbia is not an EU country, EU roaming does not apply and mobile data on an EU plan can get very expensive. An eSIM or a local SIM card is the cheaper option.

Belgrade: frequently asked questions

Facts as of 25.10.2026 – prices and rules can change, so check the official sources named above before you travel.

Belgrade travel diary: our verdict

Our verdict on this Belgrade travel diary: Belgrade is not a polished destination, but that is exactly what makes it so exciting. The city is also cheap for Austrians and easy to reach by car, so it is perfect for a long weekend. All the sights with time needed and prices are in our list Things to do in Belgrade; background on the city can be found on Wikipedia.