Thailand: Phi Phi, Krabi and Maya Bay by longtail – twice, once the hard way

Krabi and the islands off its coast were our first big trip to Asia in 2024 – and we came back in 2025.

Thailand was our first big trip to Asia in 2024, and we came back in 2025. The Andaman Sea is what you see in the photos – turquoise water, vertical limestone cliffs, longtail boats with colourful ribbons. And at the same time it’s what you don’t see: rainy season in August, jellyfish, overcrowded speedboat tours.

Longtail instead of speedboat

In Ao Nang (Krabi) we chartered a longtail boat with a driver for a day right on the beach: about 3,000–4,000 baht (€80–100) for up to six people, route of your choice. The speedboat to Maya Bay costs about the same per person, and you’re out with 40 others. With the longtail you were in the bay at nine o’clock, before the fleet arrived from Phuket.

Where to stay

Railay/Ao Nang: a resort with a pool and a view of the cliffs from about €60 a night in the low season. Phi Phi itself is loud and expensive – a day trip is enough. We added Koh Samui and Koh Phangan in 2024; they’re quieter and better for longer stays.

The part nobody plans

In November 2025 it happened: an emergency on Phuket, at night. An ambulance? We couldn’t find one – so a taxi to Bangkok Hospital Phuket. A private hospital, excellent, English-speaking, and: no insurance. We didn’t have any. The result: around €4,000 for the emergency room, tests and treatment – no room, no overnight stay, just the bare essentials. Paid with our Wise card before anyone was even treated.

Since then there’s no trip without travel medical insurance. How important that is we saw half a year later in Orlando: a family member travelling with us had a problem with her leg, a hospital in the USA – and our insurer (HanseMerkur, a German provider) settled all costs directly with the hospital; we never saw a bill. For long trips and working on the road we recommend SafetyWing (cancel monthly). Cover like this costs less than one dinner a week.

Internet & money

An eSIM from Airalo or a local SIM at the airport (AIS, 15 GB approx. €10). Cash matters – longtail drivers, markets and scooter rentals don’t take cards. Withdraw with Wise at any ATM; the Thai ATM fee (220 baht) still applies – so take out larger amounts at once.

Best time to visit

November to March. In August it rains for two hours a day, but everything is empty and half the price.

Maya Bay, entry rules and when to go: what you need to know in 2026

Maya Bay on Koh Phi Phi Leh closes every year from 1 August to 30 September so the coral and the beach can recover. The rest of the year visits are limited: swimming is not allowed, you may only wade knee-deep, and time on the beach is limited to about one hour. The national park fee is 400 baht for adults and 200 baht for children – organised tours usually include it, on a longtail charter you pay it yourself.

Since 01.05.2025 everyone entering Thailand has to complete the TDAC digital arrival card – no earlier than 72 hours before arrival and free of charge on the official website tdac.immigration.go.th. Sites that charge for it are scams. EU citizens could so far stay up to 60 days without a visa; in May 2026 the government decided to cut this to 30 days. Check the current status with the Thai embassy before you travel.

Krabi and Phi Phi: frequently asked questions

Facts as of 25.10.2026 – prices and rules can change, so check the official sources named above before you travel.

Our photos

Krabi: our verdict

Our verdict on Krabi: take a longtail boat instead of the big speedboat tours – you’re more flexible and often reach the beaches before the groups. Good travel insurance is part of Thailand too, as we learned the hard way. All the sights in Bangkok are in things to do in Bangkok; background on the province is on Wikipedia.