Albania Road Trip 10 Days: The Perfect Route by Car, Costs and Traps

You round a bend on the coastal road and suddenly it is below you: a sea in a shade of blue you have only seen in brochures, white pebble coves, grey mountains rising straight out of the water behind them. No hotel blocks, no promenade, just a village clinging to the hillside and a goatherd by the roadside. In many places Albania feels like the Mediterranean of forty years ago – and that is exactly why an Albania road trip is so special right now.

At the same time, Albania is a country that rewards planning: mountain roads that take longer than expected, petrol stations that suddenly disappear, beaches that are packed in August. In this guide you get our 10-day route by car – day by day, with driving times, checked entrance fees, the official ways to do things and the mistakes that cost you time and money.

Albania road trip 10 days: the route at a glance

The route also works in reverse. Driving times are estimates from 2026 travel reports – in 2026, roadworks on the A2 and inland cause 30–60 minute delays, and in July and August the coast often adds another hour.

Day 1: arriving in Tirana

Tirana surprises almost everyone: brightly painted façades, cafés on every corner, the huge open Skanderbeg Square and, in the evening, the Blloku district, once reserved for the party elite and now full of young Albanians on café terraces. That is plenty for the first evening: arrive, eat byrek or grilled meat, and only drive the rental car the next morning.

Parking in Tirana: the centre is divided into zones – according to 2026 travel reports around 100 lek per hour in zone A, much less in the outer zones, free on Sundays. Payment is often by SMS, which requires a local SIM. Easiest option: book a hotel with parking.

Days 2–3: Berat, the city of a thousand windows

On the hillside above the Osum river, the white Ottoman houses of the Mangalem quarter are stacked so closely that it looks as if hundreds of windows are watching you at once. Together with Gjirokastër, Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it is worth staying the night: once the day-trippers have left and the houses turn golden in the last light, Berat is at its most beautiful.

Berat Castle (Kalaja)

The castle is not a museum but a living neighbourhood – with churches, lanes and houses where families still live. Entry costs 300 lek, cash at the booth by the main gate, which according to reports is staffed from about 9 am to 6 pm. The climb from Mangalem is roughly 1 km of steep cobbles – allow 15–20 minutes uphill and wear good shoes.

Onufri Museum

Inside the castle, the Cathedral of St Mary houses icons by the painter Onufri, famous for his distinctive red. Entry 400 lek (500 lek with audio guide), free under 12. Note: winter hours apply from 1 November – Tuesday to Saturday 9 am–4 pm, Sunday 9 am–2 pm, closed Mondays.

Day 4: Gjirokastër, the stone city

At around 147 km and 2.5–3 hours, the drive from Berat to Gjirokastër is one of the longer legs. Your reward is a city of grey stone: houses with stone-slab roofs, steep lanes, an old bazaar – and above it all one of the largest castles in the Balkans.

• Gjirokastër Castle: 400 lek. May to September daily 9 am–7 pm; October to April Tuesday to Saturday 9 am–4 pm, Sunday 9 am–2 pm, closed Mondays.
• Skenduli House: around 200–300 lek, guided by the family, 30–45 minutes. This is where you understand how the stone houses used to work.
• Parking: in the lower town or at one of the small paid car parks near the bazaar – the old lanes are narrow, steep and partly one-way.

Stay the night if you can. In the evening, as the heat leaves the stones, half of Gjirokastër sits in the cafés by the bazaar.

Day 5: the Blue Eye and on to Sarandë

On the way to the coast, stop at the Syri i Kaltër spring, the “Blue Eye”. From a dark hole whose depth nobody knows exactly, ice-cold, incredibly clear water bubbles up – deep blue in the middle, turquoise at the edges. It is one of those places where every visitor falls silent for a moment.

• Entry: 50 lek per person, cash.
• Parking: around 300 lek per car for up to three hours, cash.
• Swimming: officially not allowed – and at about 10 °C no fun anyway.
• Best time: at opening around 7 am or after 4 pm. Midday in July and August is crowded.

From there it is another 22 km or so (30–40 minutes) to Sarandë, the lively harbour town opposite Corfu.

Day 6: Butrint, Ksamil and the most beautiful sunset

Butrint: 2,500 years of history in a forest

Butrint National Park is the highlight of the south for us: ruins from Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian times scattered through a forest by a lagoon. An amphitheatre full of croaking frogs, a baptistery, a Venetian tower above the water.

• Entry: 1,000 lek for adults, 500 lek for ages 12–18, free under 12. The acropolis museum is included. Bring cash – according to reports, card payment does not always work.
• Opening hours: 1 April to 31 October 8:30 am–8 pm (last entry 6 pm); 1 November to 31 March 9 am–5:30 pm (last entry 3 pm).
• Timing: cruise and coach groups arrive between 10 am and 2 pm. It is quieter at 8:30 am or after 3 pm.

Ksamil and Xarrë

Afterwards, cool off in Ksamil – turquoise water, small offshore islets. In July and August, however, sunbeds stand shoulder to shoulder. For sunset, drive a little further towards Xarrë: the view over the lagoons as the sun sinks behind Corfu is one of the moments that stayed with us most from our Balkan road trip.

Days 7–8: the Albanian Riviera between Himarë and Dhërmi

Now comes the stretch many people travel to Albania for in the first place: the SH8 coastal road north from Sarandë. It is about 53 km to Himarë, but do not expect motorway speeds – the road winds in curves above the sea. Stop at the small fortress of Porto Palermo on a peninsula in an almost enclosed bay.

Caution: according to a 2026 road report, there are two narrow cliff sections south of Porto Palermo and near Bunec, plus unmarked patched sections. Drive them as if they were single-lane roads.

Day 8 belongs to the sea. Around Himarë, Livadh, Jalë and Dhërmi you will find pebble coves with clear water. The famous Gjipe beach is best reached on foot: the access road is unpaved and not suitable for rental cars. The walk through the canyon down to the sea is worth the adventure – bring water and sturdy shoes.

Day 9: over the Llogara Pass to Vlorë

Beyond Dhërmi the road climbs steeply to the Llogara Pass at 1,027 m. From the top you see the whole Riviera below you – on clear days all the way to the islands. Since 24 May 2025 there has also been the Llogara Tunnel, according to reports open around the clock and currently toll-free; it saves 20–40 minutes. Our tip: drive over the pass once, for the view – between April and October it is often foggy in the morning, usually clearing by 11 am.

Very important: according to the road report, there are no petrol stations between Vlorë and Himarë. If you drive the route in reverse, fill up in Vlorë before heading for the pass.

Vlorë itself has a long seafront promenade, city beaches and plenty of restaurants – a good last evening by the sea. We know the beaches around Vlorë first-hand from our summer 2025 road trip.

Day 10: back to Tirana

From Vlorë, take the SH4 and the A2 back to Tirana. The route is mostly in good condition (2026 road report: A2 and SH4 rated 8 out of 10), although near Rrogozhinë the speed limit drops without warning. Leave a generous buffer before your flight – for roadworks and returning the rental car.

Alternative: the north with Shkodër and Lake Koman

If you prefer mountains to beaches, swap the Riviera days for the north: Shkodër, the ferry across Lake Koman – one of Europe’s most spectacular boat rides, about 2.5 hours between steep rock walls – and the mountain villages of Valbona and Theth.

• Koman → Fierza ferry: departs at 9 am, returning from Fierza at 1 pm. According to reports, the Berisha ferry runs daily from 15 April to 5 November.
• Price: around €10 (or 1,000 lek) cash per person, slightly cheaper online. Cars are charged by area, about €7 per square metre – roughly €57 for a small car. Reserve car space in advance.
• Time: Shkodër to Koman is about 60 km and roughly 2 hours by road. Adding the north takes at least 2–3 extra days.

Albania road trip: what does it cost?

All prices without guarantee. As a rough guide, 100 lek is about 1 euro – the rate fluctuates, so check it on the day. We deliberately do not quote hotel prices because they vary strongly by season – compare for your dates directly.

Honestly calculated: all the entrance fees on this route together cost only around 2,350–2,450 lek per person plus parking. In Albania the money goes on the rental car, fuel, accommodation, sunbeds and parking – not on sights.

Entry, car and insurance: what you need to know

• Entry: according to the German automobile club ADAC, German citizens can enter with a passport or national ID card (not a temporary ID); the document must be valid for at least three more months on entry. Tourist stays up to 90 days without a visa. Other nationalities should check the rules with their own foreign ministry.
• Green Card: according to the German insurance association GDV, Albania is one of the countries you may only enter with your own car if you carry a valid international motor insurance card. Check that “AL” is not crossed out.
• Rental car across borders: only with the rental company’s consent. According to travel reports this costs between €0 and €40, sometimes with extra insurance.
• Deposit and excess: local rental companies often have lower excesses than in Western Europe. Read carefully what the full coverage excludes – glass and tyres are often not included.
• Speed limits: according to travel reports about 40 km/h in towns, about 80 km/h outside, up to 110 km/h on upgraded sections. Fines start at around 2,000 lek; police checks are more common than speed cameras.
• No EU roaming: Albania is not part of EU roaming. Install an eSIM beforehand or buy a local SIM – otherwise every navigation session gets expensive.

Best time for an Albania road trip

The most beautiful months are May, June and September: warm sea, green landscapes, uncrowded beaches and pleasant temperatures for the inland towns. In July and August the coast is packed, parking is scarce and drives take longer. In winter many beach accommodations are closed, but you have Berat and Gjirokastër almost to yourself – just note the shorter opening hours (Butrint: last entry 3 pm).

Albania road trip: mistakes and traps that cost you money

• Travelling without cash: many petrol stations, car parks, ticket booths and small restaurants only take lek in cash. Withdraw in larger towns and always keep a reserve.
• Almost empty tank before the Llogara Pass: there is no petrol station between Vlorë and Himarë.
• Secondary roads at night: potholes, animals and unlit stretches. Plan legs so you arrive before dark.
• Too many stops: Albania looks small on the map; the mountain roads make it big. Better one stop fewer and two nights each.
• Driving a rental car to Gjipe: the access road is unpaved – underbody damage is often yours to pay.
• Roaming shock: without an eSIM or local SIM, navigating on your home network can be very expensive.
• Butrint at midday: groups arrive between 10 am and 2 pm. Go early or late.
• Forgetting the Green Card: with your own car and no valid insurance card, you will have to buy expensive border insurance or be turned away.
• Ksamil in August: sunbed after sunbed, hunting for parking, high prices. If you can, go in June or September.
• Crossing a border without permission: taking a rental car to Montenegro, Greece or Kosovo without consent can void your insurance.

Checklist for your Albania road trip

• ☐ ID card or passport valid for at least 3 months beyond entry
• ☐ Own car: Green Card on board, “AL” not crossed out
• ☐ Rental car: border crossing, excess and exclusions (glass, tyres) clarified
• ☐ eSIM or local SIM for navigation and SMS parking
• ☐ Offline maps downloaded
• ☐ Cash in lek for entry fees, parking and fuel
• ☐ Tank filled before the Llogara Pass
• ☐ Legs planned so you arrive before dark
• ☐ Butrint and the Blue Eye scheduled early in the morning
• ☐ Sturdy shoes for Berat, Gjirokastër and the walk to Gjipe
• ☐ Travel medical insurance arranged
• ☐ Off-season: winter opening hours checked

FAQ: Albania road trip

Our verdict on an Albania road trip

Albania is not a country to tick off but one to discover: Ottoman windows in Berat, stone-slab roofs in Gjirokastër, a spring of unreal blue, ruins in the forest of Butrint and a coastline that takes your breath away at every bend. Plan generously, carry cash, fill up before the pass and do not drive after dark. Then what stays with you from your Albania road trip is not the stress of mountain roads but this image: the sun sinking into the sea behind Corfu – and you right in the middle of it.